“No Bad Days in Mulege” That’s what they say. I suppose they say this in any number of places, that little logo-y ditty seems to have been adopted by pretty much everywhere. But Mulege is the first place we saw that and so to Mulege we say it originated!
Mulege is a little palm-studded oasis with tiny winding streets and a budding tourist center. It whispers that it’s going to be the next Cabo San Lucas, and you know what? We believe it. What with Bahia Concepcion – the Bay of Conception – right there and it’s beaches galore, it’s kind of inevitable. The only thing perhaps slowing the incarnation is its weather – its colder than Cabo.
But it’s still lovely and the camping is plentiful (- very few free spots though – see ‘More Info’ at the bottom). It’s an easy place to spend some time.
We camped out at the beach for more than a few days. It was close to a week.
The weather? Hmm. It swung between the proverbial drop-dead gorgeous to ‘oh, just let that frickin’ wind die down ALREADY’. The water was deliciously chilled when the sun was brightly shining, sans wind, but turned frigid and totally impossible for us to swim in when the wind was blowing. Flip a coin – one side with a big bright smile and the other side with a huge frown and that’s pretty much how it was.
But the kids are awesome-sauce and not much besides pilfered juice boxes fazes them.
They had a good time, what with the shells on the beach, wandering in the caves (“look, mommy! I’m making markings like the ancients!”), playing with hermit crabs, starfish and kelp.
The kelp really freaked Mikey and me out. It’s nice and all but you know, we had to SWIM THROUGH kelp forests to get out to the more open water to really get our swim on. Have you ever swam through a KELP FOREST? It’s really disconcerting. It’s hard to believe some mother of a monster from the deep, dark abyss isn’t going to reach around and nab you or something. SPLAT! And you wouldn’t even be able to scream, you’d just open your mouth and start choking on sea water!
Those there are DOLPHINS. Yes, a SCHOOL OF DOLPHINS went leaping by as we were eating dinner. It felt so surreal that I was suspiciously looking around, expecting a Disney soundtrack to start going and oh, maybe a hummingbird to come out of the cacti and alight on Mikey’s finger or something. La, la, la!! Cuz that kind of thing happens, right?!
One of the wonderful things about camping on the beach for an extended period of time is the feeling that “real life” is such a craptastic illusion. It’s like those red-wax covered little round cheeses. You know what I’m talking about? You cut through the red wax, peel it back and there’s cheese inside. That’s what it all feels like – it’s like “real life” is the red wax and when we are out in the boondocks for days on end, it all gets peeled back and the soft white cheese is all that remains.
Things become very simple. Very clear.
The Business of Christmas, Elf on the Shelf, hocus-pocus, hoola-baloo – none of it makes much sense, it all seems extraordinarily silly and when we can buy a few days worth of fish off the beach from a fisherman for around $10, it also seems crazily, insanely expensive. Like, why do we do this? What about any of it makes sense? It’s fun, yeah, but isn’t it all numbing? It’s like we take all this STUFF in our Western culture – the red wax! – and numb the crap out of ourselves and then sit back and need therapy, yoga, medication and what-have-you to put the cheese back into the red wax somehow.
We celebrated Winter Solstice. We invited our beach neighbour over for dinner. He was an interesting fellow – he brought his harp along that he MADE BY HAND * – and he sang songs for us that we like, like ‘Tom Dooley’.
It was simple and, up to the point in which the kids got totally wound up and starting acting feral, it was lovely. After he left, we put Micah and Moxie to bed and I lay on the little couch with my sleeping baby tucked into the crook of my arm and watched the stars until I, too, fell asleep.
And I felt at peace. Which is easy to feel when you aren’t trapped in red wax.
The Bay of Concepcion: There are a plethora of beaches to camp on. Tent/RV, some of them require high clearance and/or close to a 4×4 to access, others literally right off the road. Services at most of the beaches includes a shared pit toilet, trash can and palapa (- canopy/little palm hut), and for those you pay between $5-$10/night. There is usually wiggle room for discounts: either for longer stays or “just cuz; para-mi”.
There are some areas to boondock. They didn’t look too hot from what we could see – like, really rocky and exposed – and I think I’d only recommend doing it if you don’t have kids on you and if you can hightail it fast if you need to. In our case – with kids and with at least an hour of necessarily loading time, forget it.
Beaches We Know:
Playa Coyote: we totally fell in love with it first time around in Baja. It’s pretty, nice people camping there, a LOT of nice people, if you catch my drift. LOTS and LOTS of nice people. It’s around $10/night, it’s quite clean, there is a small shop and restaurant nearby and local folk will deliver groceries to you for a small sum. We did not stay there this time around – it was just too full and too pricey for us. Oh, and I don’t know why people don’t talk more about the loud-ass blaring of the horns and brakes from the semis roaring by on the road (- and do I have to mention that if you get a deaf girl to tell you something is loud-assed, it’s just a bit ridiculous?)
Playa Escondida: we stayed here. I’ve already talked about it and shown you photos.
Playa Santispac: this is the big baddie. Huge long white sand beach, easy access. Looks clean. We never stayed there because it seemed so….. flat? Full of RV’s? I don’t know
There are a ton more. It would be easy to spend a month wandering around them all.
Our Harpist Neighbour:
He built that harp by hand. He can make you a harp if you’d like – he charges reasonable prices. Email him: larepole AT gmail.com