Places We Were & Weren't Supposed to Love: Guerrero Negro, Loreto & Ciudad Constitucion

Guerrero Negro – the Black Warrior – is supposed to be an armpit of a town with about as much charm and grace as a typical hairy ole pit. It’s main claim to fame is that whales come every year to have their babies in the nearby waters – and while that is intensely cool, it’s only for a few months – after that, it’s all about the Pemex gas station, the ATM machine and the supermarket for filling up before you cross the desert.

But, well. We like the place. We think it’s worth going to even if you miss the whales (- like we did, both the last time we came and this time), if only for the people, because WE LOVED THE PEOPLE!!

IMG_4550This is Tony, from “Mariscos Tony”, right on the main drag. He said he remembered us from 2 years ago, who knows? But we sure remembered him. He’s like a Japanese Yakitoriya-san, or like an Irish bartender – one of those charming, hilarious, friendly types that makes you feel great.

IMG_4533Plus, he knows his way around the kitchen

IMG_4540 IMG_4539 IMG_4553Tony told us the salt mine was cool – and we went there the next day, after eating some Adobada. Here’s a picture of that Adobada:

IMG_4567 IMG_4561 IMG_4562(** note: if you don’t go to Guerrero Negro for the people, then go for the FOOD,because it’s incredibly delicious and CHEAP**)

IMG_4576

Even Mac made a friend (- and those two were adorable, chasing each other around… I started having happy visions of a Mexican daughter-in-law and big family parties and polka music with pinatas….).

DSC_0423

So there we were, just driving along, trying to find the salt mines and there you go, we wandered right in

DSC_0415 DSC_0416 DSC_0417

It was gorgeous. We felt like good parents for a few minutes because we (- okay, MIKEY) got to talk to Micah about salt, the element, and take a hunk of salt crystals right then and there.

DSC_0420 IMG_4586A little further up the road and all of the sudden there were these guys, like security guards, calling us over. We stopped. They wanted us to be sure to check out the BIG HUNK of salt and the froth made by salt washing

DSC_0436They were so nice, the type of people that make a place special. They invited us to come back the next day for a tour with them but bummer, it didn’t work out. We really, really liked them.

IMG_4596 IMG_4595Moving on, we got some propane gas in Guerrero Negro too (- Mikey’s supposed to write a post sometime about all that kind of stuff). The kids and I waited in the truck while he went in, and EVEN THERE, people were SO NICE. Really, really nice. This one lady who looked like the Mexican incarnation of the Barefoot Contessa stopped by the truck to tell us to have happy and safe travels. The people in the truck next to us were smiling and saying hi.

IMG_4581Guerrero Negro = Nice People

Okay, so from there, we went to San Ignacio where we ended up staying a full week. The post about all that is here. From San Ignacio, we went to Santa Rosalia then Mulege and Bahia Concepcion.

Then Loreto.

Now, everyone seems to love Loreto but us. We just…don’t. First of all, the people that we met there were not as nice as they were in other places. Second, there are a TON of foreigners there and Third, we are charged foreigner prices for everything, so come on, what’s fun about that?

We stayed in the RV park in town, at $16/night, it was the cheapest accommodation we could find

IMG_5182They REALLY packed ’em in here. And check it out:

IMG_5178 IMG_5181

Have you seen rigs like this??? Those Jamborees look so wimpy, don’t they?

IMG_5172

 

As far as I’m concerned, this was the best thing about Loreto

IMG_5174

 

….watching our kids swing. Oh, and this was cool too:

IMG_5184A bike shop. Mikey got all misty-eyed, missing his job

Then we happily headed out, making a bee-line for Ciudad Constitucion. Gorgeous scenery, by the way

IMG_5187

We visited Constitucion a couple of years ago and really liked it (that post is here). It was just this simple big town on the verge of something more. Happy people. Good food.

IMG_5197We found that not much had changed except that the city has grown bigger, it’s unquestionably developed more. Speaking of developed, this made me laugh:

busty mannequin!!!!
busty mannequin!!!!

I didn’t take many photos there. We were just walking around and enjoying the people, more Adobada ( do we ever stop??), fun ice cream flavours. We found a night market and wandered around, Pugsily was a total hit.

We really like Ciudad Constitucion. Like Guerrero Negro, it’s supposed to be some kind of pit stop, but we found them both charming and worth getting to know. Most of all for the people, lovely, wonderful, friendly people.

More Info:

Where We Stayed:

Guerrero Negro: We stayed at Las Dunas – 245 pesos a night, great wifi access, excellent shower. Next to the supermarket, not far from the Lavamatica (- laundry). Accessible but for the step to get into the manager’s office.

Loreto: Rivera del Mar RV Park. $16/night. Very clean, wonderful showers. Weak or nonexistent wifi, tons of people that looked pissed off all the time. The RV park itself had a stair to get into the bathroom, a stair to access the common area, but that was it. Other than that, totally flat. On-site washing machines, $1.50/load. Extensive lending library, if you dig Dean Kootz, romance books or can read German.

Ciudad Constitucion: Posada del Sol. 400 pesos/night. this was by far the nicest place we have stayed in so far (and most expensive) – clean, new rooms, cable tv, air conditioning, strong wifi. Very comfortable and yes, accessible.

PS

The guide books we have been using are there on the sidebar.

 

Meriah
is a deaf blogger, global nomad, tech-junkie, cat-lover, Trekkie, Celto-Teutonic-peasant-handed mom of 3 (one with Down syndrome and one gifted 2E).
She likes her coffee black and hot.
Meriah on EmailMeriah on FacebookMeriah on GoogleMeriah on InstagramMeriah on LinkedinMeriah on PinterestMeriah on TwitterMeriah on Youtube

6 Comments

  • Loved the salt mine! What a nice experience to see this kind of place which reminded me of a church made inside a salt mine in Colombia… is subterranean and super cool!!

  • Did you see Bajia Asuncion on either of your travels? Just south of Guerrero Negro – turn west at Viscaiuno? I heard the road was better now but it’s a great little fishing village – nice and laid back.. Anyhow, we loved San Ignacio and Santa Rosalia too – didn’t get down as far as the rest. Looks like you are having a great time!

    • No, we didn’t! Mikey just said that he thought about going but the ducks weren’t lining up at the time (- the kids were screaming or something). Bummer. that sounds pretty awesome

  • Fun finding this website, Meriah. We enjoyed an overnight in G. Negro on April 15, a month ago. Town was celebrating its 63rd anniversary; at the festival site, we were treated to a free meal amongst friendly people. That was unexpected. I guess I like Loreto because the Malecon is lovely, there are so many restaurant choices, and we liked our hotel experiences at the Oasis. Just drove through Constitucion, both coming and going; you make me wish we’d spent more time there, but we do want to drive the peninsula again in two years. Santa Rosalia — we travel without smart phones and it was a challenge finding a restaurant, but the spaghetti and hamburger were as good as any, with very friendly service. I think the name of the restaurant is Pelone’s, which I didn’t find on TripAdvisor (when we got home). We’d thrown sleeping bags into our car but no tent — husband said ahead of time, “No way are we camping in Mexico.” He reconsidered that when we arrived at Bahia de Concepcion and saw how uncrowded and peaceful it was.

I'm opinionated, friendly & chatty... I hope you are, too