Tag

food

Browsing

I was telling you the story of how we fell in love with La Paz, wasn’t I? I gotten you past our Great Bus PukeFest of 2011, which was the decisive factor in nixing the lets-bus-around-Mexico idea. I left you at the Pension California (- which we call “Hotel California”) and we were tucking in, getting comfortable.

Okay, so this post has to be about FOOD, cuz we are awfully predictable like that. No way could we love a place without there being some GOOD FOOD going on, right?

me and mikey, la pazAnd this is the thing: Mikey and I both cook. When we pay attention to food, we are paying attention to what we can buy, ready-made and what’s available for us to make something with. No one wants to eat out all the time and no one wants to cook all the time either, right? A place to love has to have the fixin’s for both.

La Paz has that.

Their markets were amazing – and I think I’ll cover buying food in another post since it’s such a gigantically fun subject. So this is just going to be about eating out.

Mikey and I both cook (but I admit he’s way better than I am now, thanks to that jump start I gave him by being pregnant for  3 years). We both love good food, we are really picky eaters in the sense that we rarely eat anything that isn’t well prepared.

And we are not rich, nor have we ever been yet. We just know how to cook and we know how to find good, cheap food.

 Good, cheap food in La Paz

La Paz has a ton of fine restaurants and obviously really delicious morsels for sale in plush environments. Andrew Zimmern even featured a place there! But we just don’t have the budget for those places. We saw them, sized them up but didn’t try them out because we didn’t feel like using a month’s food budget for one meal.

What we did do was walk around, explore many, many streets, ask local people for spots for good-eats and we tried out what was advised.

That’s how we came by Moyeyo’s – this super cool little restaurant with a sand floor, bones from aquatic creatures hanging from the ceiling and a fat, sweet menu that we could afford to get to know.

moyeyo's

Oh my God, we loved that place.

IMG_9935 IMG_9950

Divine fish tacos, baked clams, sea goodness of every variety.

IMG_1676-1And no bill we ran up there ever went much past $20 – even when we went nuts and ordered table-covering feasts (and drinks).

IMG_1671-1one happy mansupreme.

swear to god, that's not what it looks like

We loved Moyeyo’s – we even got to know the staff, we tuned into the drama that went on and felt like part of the family. It was kind of awesome.

P1250811 P1250805 IMG_9939

Moyeyo’s was not typical though – I am pretty sure it was the only restaurant around the Malecon that we could be comfortable ordering with abandon, due to our slim wallets. But it’s not just the money piece – it’s also the quality – it was really good food.

IMG_1674-1

So other than Moyeyo’s, we ate a lot of street food – “chocolate clams”

DSCF5512 DSCF5515

Baked clams too

IMG_1496-1 IMG_1485-1 IMG_1475-2

Big huge street hamburgers. And hot dogs

IMG_0794

Mexican baked potato!

IMG_1545-1
everything but the bathwater…

We ate a lot of street food.

This is a great thing because you can see how clean the stand is – you are looking right at the kitchen after all – you pay a fraction of the restaurant price, the food is usually outstanding, and you get to hang out with interesting people you’d likely never meet elsewhere.

IMG_1177-1IMG_1176-1

Win-win.

***

La Fuente Ice Cream

la fuente ice cream

If you ever go to La Paz (and you happen to like ice cream), this is an absolute must. It’s handmade ice-cream of the Mexican variety with absurdly delightful non-American flavours. I’m talking… blackberry cheese with REAL CHEESE in it. Stuff that’s like, ‘whoah! Are you KIDDING?’ only they aren’t and you are terribly glad it’s for real because this is some insane deliciousness.

blackberry con queso

Sorry for all my crappy, blurred photos. Next time we go there, I’ll be bringing the dslr and TRIPOD, baby!

IMG_1705-1

I think it was La Fuente that made an ice cream addict out of Moxie. Or else the girl just knows a good thing when she tastes it.

IMG_1706-1***

I know a lot of parents are extra-cautious about food in foreign countries with their little ones, and I get it. Sort of. I mean, I know we have to keep our eyes open and our heads on our shoulders. But it’s good to remember that kids adapt faster than adults – your little one is actually less likely to get some nasty worm thing than YOU are.

Food is also one of the most integral parts of a culture – I know Mikey and I want our kids tasting and exploring their ways around places unknown, respecting and appreciating differences. We want them to grow up curious and open minded towards the cuisine of others. Getting out there and asking people what’s good to eat in their town is one way we do it – street food is another. Still another – and one of the best ways to the soul of a culture is eating at the home and table of a family.

We are not there yet, but boy, do we ever hope to be!

PS

This post is a mix of photos over a few years – hence the short haired-Micah in one photo and long in the other 🙂

 

I spent a long time watching old Mexican TV shows in the small motel we stayed at on the night we crossed the border. I got such a kick out of them – couldn’t understand anything they were saying but who cares?! I can’t hear anyway! It was fun. Ladies in early 80’s Jane Fonda-esque getups, silvery eyeshow and hairstyles that spoke to Prince and Apollonia. Diggit! Radness.

In the morning I felt hungover – what was that about, staying up till 11?! 9 is pushing it, normally. Ha. But my kids sure were perky, and as we headed out for pure morning deliciousness in the form of Gorditas.

IMG_4237 IMG_4240 IMG_4242

That breakfast place was the best. Run by a bunch of mamas, they served up Moxie and MacQ some kind of beans/salsa (- without us ordering it), which, coupled with them dragging out a couple of high chairs, kind of made me want to hug them and be best friends for life. One older lady even came and took MacQ from me so I could eat, taking him around to everyone for introductions and such.

I’m sure there are a few mothers reading this who just know what I’m talking about, how awesome it is to have someone kind, clean and trustworthy-looking just loving on your little ones with that sweet touch so they just sink in and and the back-arching screams are tucked up and put away.

On that high note, we left Rosarita for Ensenada, stopping along the way at Puerto Nuevo for lobsters and some beach walking. The beach was a huge hit with the kids

DSC_0221

The lobster was a huge hit with us* (see footnote for more info)

IMG_4267 IMG_4264 IMG_4262 IMG_4271

Ensenada is this city that feels like a Mexican suburb of an American city, what with all the dollar prices and Starbucks, Office Depots and Walmart. Big box heaven! But then you look up and see the largest Mexican flag ever made and can rest assured: you are in Mexico all right.

We decided to camp that night – why? I don’t know why. That was pretty dumb. The campground was a butt-ugly pit stop with gas stations around it, the toilet in the ladies room was revolting and the wifi only worked if you sat next to their modem. And it was $25. You read that right: TWENTY FIVE DOLLARS. There were motels around that were cheaper, and not all of them pay-by-the-hour either.

Boy, did we ever feel stupid. SO STUPID!!

But we were like, okay, let’s just make the best of the situation. Let’s get our own modem taken care of, let’s get the fan clutch for Myrtle, let’s EAT SOME ADOBADA!

IMG_4347

IMG_4350Adobada is this insanely delicious meat that has been marinated in vinegar. Vinegar and meat… yeah – doesn’t sound that great, does it? Only it IS, like, it’s so good that if there was an adobada stand on the far side of a lake and you didn’t know how to swim, you’d learn how to swim super fast or die drowning trying to get to it. Just thinking about it now as I type – the deep red/brown of the meat, the succulent juices dripping off and down, the tender co-mingling of the onions, cilantro, spices and avocado, the fresh tortilla embracing it all in a loving clasp…

 

ANYWAY! (*head snaps back to reality) Yeah! Adobada! We went for it, and went back and back some more!

Mexico won’t make thin people out of us, that’s for sure.

Moving on, we bought the Telcel modem that Jessica recommended (- and it works wonderfully), bought the fan clutch. Stocked up at Soriana, that big box store of Mexican generic awesomeness where there seem to be just as many carts for kids as there are just plain ole carts. Our kids were smiling.

IMG_4288 IMG_4290

 

Got all set up in our Myrtle and took off – but only as far as Punta Banda, 10 or so miles away. We parked on a beach, paid $9 for our spot (- hot water, clean bathrooms, no wifi), and were so psyched to be there that we thought we’d stay more than a couple of days.

DSC_0238 DSC_0267

There were hot springs on the beach! (-you’d dig through the sand to make a hole large enough to sit in)

DSC_0260 DSC_0248

There was a beach RIGHT IN FRONT of our camp!

DSC_0246

There were hot showers (- perhaps funneled from the hot springs?) with lovely water pressure

There was NOONE ELSE THERE!!!

DSC_0239

Wheeeeeee!

Mikey worked his magic on Myrtle

IMG_4297 IMG_4300 IMG_4308 IMG_4301

It was the fan clutch, all right. Changed on up, we decided to leave even though it had only been two nights. The thing was, the ocean water was too cold to swim in and we had hoped for it get warmer (the weather AND the water), but neither happened.Worse, it started raining and grew considerably colder and windier. FREEZING!

We packed up. Headed south, in search of baked clams at San Quintin.

More Info:

Rosarita:

  • Hotel we stayed at: La Quinta, 500 pesos/double (- about $40). It seemed to be the safest-looking cheap place in town
  • Breakfast place was right around the corner on the same block as the hotel, specializing in Gorditas
  • Taco shop with insanely delicious tacos was right across the street – dish your own salsa, honor paying system

Puerto Nuevo:

It’s famous for lobsters. There are a ton of restaurants here, running the full gamut, price-wise. We scoped them out and went for one that 3 lobsters for $15, including drinks, rice, beans, tortillas and tostada de ceviche. Yum.

Ensenada:

  • Playa de Campo was where we stayed and I’d avoid that place at all costs in the future. Awful. Don’t make the same mistake we did
  • Adobada: we found the best adobada in the small stands that came out at dusk. Just walk around
  • Telcel modem: at the shop by Soriana – this deserves its own post because it is so important

Punta Banda:

This is a small village next to La Bufadora. Evidently, there is a blowhole called La Bufadora that you can catch if your timing is miraculous. Ours wasn’t – not this time nor the last time we were at La Bufadora, trying to see it.

Punta Banda, like La Bufadora, has a lot of campgrounds and most of them seem RV-welcome. I think they all range in price from $8-up, with the emphasis on “-up”. Laundry is at La Bufadora which is about an hour walk away. But who walks, except for us? We didn’t see anyone

PS

kelp man
kelp man
Font Resize
Contrast